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Abstract: Refers to a design in the abstract style, i.e. one that represents a general form and not an accurate representation of a subject.
Acrylic: A quick drying man-made fiber. It is lightweight and washable with easy care but tends to pill and is not absorbent.
Alençon: Delicate needlepoint lace.
A-line gown: Form fitting bodices that flare out from the waistline to a full skirt. These gowns have a seamless waist.
A-line skirt/fit and flare skirt: A skirt that is fitted at the waist and flares out in an A-line or tulip shape at the hem.
Allover: An embroidered, printed, or lace fabric with a design covering most of the surface (allover the surface).
Aloha shirt: Hawaiian shirt.
Alpaca: True alpaca is a hair fiber form the Alpaca animal, a member of the Ilama family of the South American Andes Mountains.
Angora [Goat/ Rabbit]: (Goat) Soft long hair of the Angora goat, often called Mohair. The goat is native to Anatolia in the Angora province of Turkey but is extensively raised today in Texas by western ranchers. (Rabbit) angora is usually blended with other fabrics for a novelty effect.
Argyle: A sock knit in an argyle pattern, namely varicolored diamonds on a solid background color.
Ascot: A broad neck scarf that is looped under the chin.
Asymmetrical waistline: Features a side change in the waist height, i.e. from Empire to Natural.
 
Babushka: A usually triangularly folded kerchief for the head (scarves).
Back drape: A length of fabric attached at either the shoulder or waist that flows over the back to the hem, and can be removable.
Back Slit: A vertical opening at the back seam of a garment that allows for freedom of movement.
Back wrap: A wraparound garment, as a skirt, that fastens in the back.
Back yoke: A fitted or shaped piece at the top of a skirt or at the shoulder of various garments.
Balaclava: A knit cap for the head and neck. [Also called, balaclava helmet]
Ballerina: A full skirt that reaches just above the ankles.
Ballerina neckline: This is a low neckline that usually occurs with strapless or spaghetti strapped dresses.
Band: A close-fitting strip that confines material at the waist, neck, or cuff of clothing.
Bandanna: A large figured handkerchief.
Bark Cloth: Originally referred to fabric made from the bark of trees. Now the term is used to describe fabric with a surface texture resembling tree bark.
Basque waist/V-waist: This dropped waist starts at or just below the natural waistline, and dips in the center creating a "V" shape.
Bateau neck/Boat neck: A high, wide, straight neckline that runs straight across the front and back, meeting at the shoulders; the same depth in the front and back.
Bathing suit: Swimsuit
Batik: A fabric printed by batik, an Indonesian method of hand-printing textiles by coating with wax the parts not to be dyed. The fabric usually has a veined appearance where the dye has seeped through the cracks in the wax.
Batiste: Cotton, also rayon and wool. Named after Jean Batiste, a French linen weaver. Light weight, soft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles nainsook, but finer. It belongs to the lawn family; almost transparent. Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In a heavier weight, it is used for foundation garments and linings in a plain, figured, striped, or flowered design. Now it is usually made of 100% polyester distinguished by slubs in filling direction.
Bell-bottoms: Pants with wide flaring bottoms.
Bengaline: A fabric with a crosswise rib made from textile fibers (as rayon, nylon, cotton, or wool) often in combination. Crosswise rib, warp faced. Grosgrain and Peter sham is bengaline cut to ribbon widths. Cotele - A French term for bengaline made from a silk or rayon.
Beret: A visor less usually woolen cap with a tight headband and a soft full flat top.
Bermudas: Shorts.
Bertha: A wide round collar covering the shoulders. Bias cut: Cut diagonally across the grain of a fabric. Used to create garments that follow the body curves closely.
Binding: A narrow fabric used to finish raw edges.
Birdseye: Very soft, light weight and absorbent. It is also called "diaper cloth" and is used for that purpose as well as very good toweling.
Blazer: A sports jacket often notched collar and patched pockets.
Block printed: A hand printing method using wood, metal, or linoleum blocks. The design is carved on the block, one block for each color. The dye is applied to the block which is pressed or hammered against the fabric.
Bloomers: Full loose trousers gathered at the knee formerly worn by women for athletics; underwear of similar design worn by girls.
Blouson: A garment, as a dress, having a close waistband with blousing of material over it.
Boa: A long fluffy scarf of fur, feathers, or delicate fabric.
Boater: A stiff hat usually made of braided straw with a brim, hatband, and flat crown.
Bolero: A loose waist-length jacket which is open at the front.
Bolo tie: A cord fastened around the neck with an ornamental clasp and worn as a necktie.
Bomber jacket: A zippered usually leather jacket with front pockets and knitted cuffs and waistband.
Bonnet: A cloth or straw hat tied under the chin and worn by women and children.
Boot-cut: Cut below the belly button and slightly flares from the knee to the ankle.
Bouclé: A fabric of bouclé yarn, an uneven yarn of three piles one of which forms loops at intervals. Wool, also in rayon, silk, cotton, linen, blends, hair fibers. Any weave, knit. From the French for "buckled" or "ringed". A drawn out or ringed, looped yarn is used to give it a kinky appearance at intervals. Bowler: A derby hat.
Box Pleat: Two folds of fabric brought together to form a pleat.
Boy-leg: Shorts, undergarments, or swimwear that has a close fitting leg that reaches half way down the thigh.
Brilliantine: A light lustrous fabric that is similar to alpaca and is woven usually with a cotton warp and mohair or worsted filling.
Broadcloth: Cotton, silk, or rayon. Plain weave and in most cotton broadcloths made with a very fine crosswise rib weave. It is finer than poplin when made with a crosswise rib and it is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Finest quality made from Egyptian or combed pima cotton. Used in Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in plain colors, blouses, summer wear of all kinds.
Brocade: A rich oriental silk fabric with raised patterns in gold and silver. Cotton brocade often has the ground of cotton and the pattern of rayon and silk. Pattern is in low relief. Generally woven in Jacquard and dobby. Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect. Sometimes with colored or metallic threads making the design usually against a satin weave background. This makes the figures stand out. The figures in brocade are rather loose, while in damask the figure threads are actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a twill ground or twill on a satin ground. Often reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage, scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other designs.
Brocatelle: Silk, rayon, cotton, and synthetics. Jacquard - double or backed cloth. It is recognized by a smooth raised figure of warp-effect, usually in a satin weave construction, on a filling effect background. While brocatelle is sometimes classed as a flat fabric, it shows patterns which stand out in "high relief" in a sort of blistered effect.
Brogue: A stout oxford shoe with perforations and usually a wing tip.
Buffalo check: A bold check pattern with blocks of 2 or 3 contrasting colors. Often red and black in twill weave.
Burn out: A fabric made of 2 fibers then printed with a chemical that dissolves one of the fibers thus creating a design .Often done on velvet.
Bush jacket: A long cotton jacket resembling a shirt and having four patch pockets and a belt.
Bush shirt: A usually loose-fitting cotton shirt with patch pockets.
Bustier: A tight-fitting often strapless top worn as a brassiere or outer garment.
Button-down: A shirt with a button-down collar.
Caftan: A usually cotton or silk ankle-length garment with long sleeves that is common throughout the Levant.
Calico: Cotton cloth imported from India; a plain white cotton fabric that is heavier than muslin; any of various cheap cotton fabrics with figured patterns. Rather coarse and light in weight. It is not always fast in color. Sized for crispness but washes out and requires starch each time. Designs are often geometric in shape, but originally elaborate designs of birds, trees, and flowers. Similar to percale.
Camel hair: Hair from the camel. Sometimes blended with wool or imitated in wool. Twill or plain weave. Under hair is best. It is light weight, lustrous and soft. It ranges from a light tan to a brownish-black color.ÊUsually left its natural tones but can be dyed-usually navy and some red. It has quite a long nap and is warm. Better grades are expensive. Sometimes blended with wool to reduce the cost and increase the wear.
Camisole: A short sleeveless garment for women.
Camp shirt: A woman´s shirt having a notched collar and often patch pockets.
Capelet: A small cape usually covering the shoulders.
Capri pants: Close-fitting women´s pants that end above the ankle. [Also called capris]
Cap sleeve: A small, short sleeve which sits on the shoulder, either forming a stiff cap or falling on to the arm to provide minimal coverage.
Car coat: A three-quarter-length overcoat.
Cardigan: A usually collarless sweater or jacket that opens the full length of the center front.
Carpenter pants/shorts: Five-pocket pants characterized by a "hammer holder," a stretch of material connecting the outside seam to the back pocket.
Cashmere (Kashmir): From the Kashmir goat, a hair fiber found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, and South west China. Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear. All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits. Fiber is cylindrical, soft and silken. More like wool than any other hair fiber. Has a very soft silky finish; very light in weight. Doesn´t stand up to hard wear because of it´s extremely soft downy finish. True color is brownish, but can be dyed any shade. Comes in different weights.
Celadon: A grayish yellow green.
Chambray: A fabric, similar to denim, made of indigo yarns crossed with white yarns. It is usually a light blue color that fades with wearing and washing.
Chamoisette cotton: Also rayon and nylon. Double knit construction. A fine, firmly knit fabric. Has a very short soft nap. Nylon chamoisette is more often called "glove silk". Used for gloves.
Chantilly lace: A delicate silk, linen, or synthetic lace having a six-sided mesh ground and a floral or scrolled design.
Chaps: Leather leggings joined by a belt or lacing often with flared outer flaps and worn over the trousers, as by western ranch hands.
Charmeuse: A lightweight silk, cotton or man-made fiber dress fabric which is soft and drapes well. It is smooth, has a semi-lustrous satin face and dull back.
Chartreuse: A variable color averaging a brilliant yellow green.
Check: A fabric woven or printed with a pattern in squares that resembles a checkerboard.
Chemise/Skimmer: Simply a straight unbelted dress with varying sleeves and length.
Chemisette: A woman´s garment, especially one, as of lace, to fill the open front of a dress.
Chenille fabric: A warp yarn of any major textile fiber. Filling of chenille yarns (has a pile protruding all around at right angles). The word is French for caterpillar and fabric looks hairy. A fuzzy yarn whose pile resembles a caterpillar. Do not confuse with tufted effects obtained without the use of true Chenille filling. Used for millinery, rugs, decorative fabrics, trimmings, upholstery.
Cheongsam: An oriental dress with a slip skirt and a mandarin collar.
Chesterfield: A single-breasted or double-breasted semi-fitted overcoat with velvet collar.
Chiffon: (French for "rag") Silk, rayon, cotton, and synthetics. Plain weave. Lightweight, sheer, transparent and It is very strong, despite filmy look. Wears very well. It has a slightly bumpy look.
China silk: Originally hand woven in China. Very soft and extremely lightweight but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and softness are characteristic of the fabric. Mostly for linings, and could be used for blouses.
Chinchilla: Cotton or wool, and some manmade and synthetics. Sateen or twill construction. Does not resemble true chinchilla fur. It has small nubs on the surface of the fabric which are made by the Chinchilla machine. Made in medium and heavy weights. Very warm and cozy fabrics.
Chino: Cotton twill (left hand) weaves. Combined two-ply warp and filling. Has a sheen that remains. Fabric was purchased in China (thus the name) by the U.S. Army for uniforms. Originally used for army cloth in England many years before and dyed olive-drab. Fabric is mercerized and sanforized. Washes and wears extremely well with a minimum of care. Army uniforms, summer suits and dresses, sportswear.
Chintz: Cotton cloth usually printed with flowery patterns, that have a slightly shiny appearance. Cotton plain weave and has bright printed gay figures, large flower designs, birds and other designs. Also comes in plain colors. Also comes semi-glazed. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne. Named from the Indian word "Chint" meaning "broad, gaudily printed fabric". Used in draperies, slipcovers, dresses, sportswear.
Choker: Something, as a collar or a necklace, worn closely about the throat or neck.
Cinnamon: A light yellowish brown.
Ciré: A garment a highly glazed finish usually achieved by applying wax to the fabric.
Cloche: A woman´s small close-fitting hat usually with deep rounded crown and very narrow brim.
Clothes moth: Any of several small yellowish or buff-colored moths (esp. Tinea pellionella, and Tineola bisselliella of the family Tineidae) whose larvae eat wool, fur or feathers.
Clutch: A woman´s small usually strapless handbag.
Coatdress: A dress styled like a coat usually with a front buttoning from neckline to hemline.
Collarette: The trim around the neck of a t-shirt or sweatshirt.
Column skirt/straight skirt: Also referred to as a pencil skirt, this skirt is a straight line with no flare or fullness at the hem or waistline.
Combed cotton: Cotton that has had the short fibers and impurities removed. It is a superior process to the more common treatment called ′carding′ because the yarns have less fibers projecting from them.
Corduroy: Cotton, rayon, and other textile fibers. In the velvet family of fabrics and has narrow, medium, and wide wales. Wales have different widths and depths. Most of it is washable and wears very well. Has a soft luster.
Corset: A woman´s close-fitting boned supporting undergarment that is often hooked and laced and extends from the torso to below the hips and has garters attached.
Cotton: A plant of the Genus Gossypium, which yields fiber for the manufacture of durable and permanent fine papers and cellulose derivatives. The use of cotton dates back more than 5,000 years. Quality depends on the length of the fiber, longer being better, and fiber lengths vary from less than one-half inch to more than two inches.
American Upland Cotton: Representing the bulk of the world crop, American Upland fiber runs between 3/4" and 1 1/4".
Egyptian Cotton: Long staple variety from Egypt with fiber length averaging 1 3/8".
Pima Cotton: An excellent long staple variety grown in Arizona, New Mexico, Texas and California. It is a cross between Sea Island Cotton and Egyptian Cotton with fiber length averaging 1 1/2". The "SuPima" certification mark is used only when the product is made entirely from Southwestern extra-long staple cotton grown by members of the SuPima Association of America.
Sea Island Cotton: The very finest and most expensive cotton, in very limited supply, with a fiber length greater than 1 1/2".
Cowl: A hood or long hooded cloak especially of a monk.
Cowl neck: A neckline featuring a piece of material attached to a garment at the neck, which may be used as a hood or draped loosely in swag from shoulder to shoulder at the front neckline or back.
Cravat: A band or scarf worn around the neck; necktie.
Crêpe: Worsted cotton, wool, silk, man-made synthetics. Mostly plain, but various weaves. Has a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness. Dull with a harsh dry feel. Woolen crêpes are softer than worsted. If it is fine, it drapes well. It Has very good wearing qualities. Has a very slimming effect. Depending on weight, it is used for dresses of all types, including long dinner dresses, suits, and coats.
Crêpe-back satin: (satin-back crêpe, crêpe-satin, or satin-crêpe) Satin weave on the face and a crêpe effect on the back. It is a soft fabric which is reversible.
Crêpe de chine: Has a soft hand and considerable luster. Made of raw silk or rayon. It is fairly sheer. Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy crêpe de chine is called "Canton crêpe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made in rayon.
Crewel: A fine, loosely-twisted, two-ply worsted yarn. Common applications are embroidery [typically worsted wool on a plain weave fabric] and crewel lace (narrow edging).
Crew neck: A round neck with ribbed banding that fits close to the base of the neck.
Crinoline: A full stiff skirt or underskirt made of crinoline fabric, namely stiffened open-weave cotton or horsehair.
Crochet lace: Lace handmade with a crochet hook usually medallion patterns on a mesh ground.
Cuff: A usually wide band worn as a bracelet.
Culotte: A divided skirt.
Cummerbund: A broad waistband usually worn in place of a vest with men´s dress clothes and adapted in various styles of women´s clothes.
Cutaway: A coat with skirts tapering from the front waistline to form tails at the back.
Cut Velvet: Jacquard fabric consisting of a velvet design on a plain ground. Also called beaded velvet. Used in evening wear and home furnishings.
Dacron: (Trademark) Used for a synthetic polyester textile fiber. Du Pont brand of polyester fiber.
Dalmatic: A wide-sleeved over garment with slit sides.
Damask: Originally made of silk that came to India from China via Damascus. In the XIII Century, Marco Polo gave an interesting tale about it. It is one of the oldest and most popular cloths to be found today. Very elaborate designs are possible. Very durable. Reversible fabric. Sheds dirt. The firmer the texture, the better the quality. Launders well and holds a high luster - particularly in linen.
Deco: Refers to designs which suggest the Art Deco style of the 20´s and 30´s, characterized by bold outlines and streamlined shapes.
Décolletage: A décolleté dress, a strapless dress or one with a plunging neckline.
Deerstalker: A close-fitting hat with a visor at the front and at the back and with earflaps that may be worn up or down.
Denier: A unit of fineness for rayon, nylon, and silk, based on a standard mass per length of 1 gram per 9,000 meters of yarn.
Denim: Name derived from French "serge de Nimes". Originally had dark blue, brown or dark grey warp with a white or gray filling giving a mottled look and used only for work clothes. A firm durable twilled usually cotton fabric. [Plural] overalls or trousers usually of blue denim, namely a firm durable twilled usually cotton fabric woven with colored warp and white filling threads.
Derby: A man´s stiff felt hat with dome-shaped crown and narrow brim.
Diamond neck: A diamond-shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
Dickey: An article of clothing worn to fill in the neckline.
Dinner Jacket: A jacket for formal evening wear.
Dirndl: A German dress with tight bodice, short sleeves, low neck, and a full skirt, with a tight waistband.
Dolman sleeve: Cut as an extension of the bodice, the dolman sleeve is designed without a socket for the shoulder, creating a deep, wide armhole that reaches from the waist to a narrowed wrist. Also called a batwing sleeve.
Donegal wool: Also in rayon and cottons. Mostly plain weave but some in twill. Originally a homespun woven by the peasants in Donegal, Ireland. A rough and ready fabric that stands much hard wear. Yarns are coarse with thick slubs and colored nubs. Now made in other places as well - particularly England.
Dotted Swiss: Sheer light muslin ornamented with evenly spaced raised dots. Placed regularly or irregularly on a semi-sheer usually crisp fabric which may or may not be permanent. First made on hand looms in Switzerland.
Double-breasted: Having one-half of the front lapped over the other, and usually have a double row of buttons and a single row of buttonholes.
Double-face Satin: Yarn woven with two warps and one filling, to simulate a double satin construction. Has satin on both sides.
Double knit: A knitted fabric (cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics) made with a double set of needles to produce a double thickness of fabric with each thickness joined by interlocking stitches.
Doupion (douppioni): Silk yarns made from the cocoon of two silk worms that have nested together. In spinning, the double strand is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diameter in places. The fabric is very irregular and shows many slubs; seems to be made in a hit and miss manner. It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabric is called "Cupioni". Dupion yarns also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.
Draped bodice: An extra piece of material is draped over the bust-line.
Drapey: Refers to a fabric with good drape, that is, one that is supple and falls easily into graceful folds when hung or tailored.
Dressing gown: A robe worn especially while dressing or resting.
Dropped waist/low waist: A waistline that is sewn below the body´s natural waistline.
Duffel coat: A heavy usually woolen medium-length coat with toggle fasteners and a hood.
Dungaree: Clothes made usually of blue denim.
Duster: A lightweight over garment popular in the fifties or a dress-length housecoat.
Easy Care: Refers to fabrics which are restored to their original appearance after laundering with little or no ironing. Generally such fabrics can be machine washed and tumble dried.
Embossed: Fabric with a raised design that has been engraved on a metal cylinder then impressed on the fabric with heat and pressure.
Embroidery: Ornamental needlework on fabric either by hand or by machine.
Empire bodice: A bodice that ends just below the bust, sometimes low-cut and gathered.
Empire seams: A seam that is sewn directly below the bust-line.
Empire waist: This waistline begins just below the bust.
Epaulet: An ornamental fringed shoulder pad formerly worn as part of a military uniform.
Eton collar: A large stiff turnover collar.
Eton jacket: A short black jacket with long sleeves, wide lapels, and an open front.
Eyelet: A fabric decorated with cut out areas surrounded by stitching. Used for dresses, blouses, children´s apparel, curtains.
Faille: A somewhat shiny/lustrous closely woven silk, rayon, or cotton fabric characterized by slight ribs in the weft. Finer than gross grain but in that family - ribs are also flatter than in grosgrain. Some belongs to the crpe family.
Fair: Isle an article of clothing knitted in Fair Isle style, namely a style of knitting originating in the Shetland Islands that is characterized by bands of multicolored geometric patterns.
Fatigue: The uniform or work clothing worn on fatigue and in the field.
Faux shearling: Fabrics made to imitate shearling- the pelt of a sheep with the wool in place.
Faux suede: Imitation suede also known as ultrasuede.
Fedora: A low soft felt hat with the crown creased lengthwise.
Felt: A cloth made of wool and fur often mixed with natural or synthetic fibers through the action of heat, moisture, chemicals, and pressure; a firm woven cloth of wool or cotton heavily napped and shrunk.
Fichu: A woman´s light triangular scarf that is draped over the shoulders and fastened in front or worn to fill in a low neckline.
Filet: A lace with a square mesh and geometric designs.
Fillet: A ribbon or narrow strip of material used especially as a headband.
Fishnet: A coarse open-mesh fabric.
Fishtail train: Fitted around the hips and flares out from the knee to the hemline.
Fitted point sleeve: A long, narrow sleeve that tapers to a point which rests against the back of the hand.
Flame Stitch: A zigzag design suggesting a flame.
Flannel: Soft twilled wool or worsted fabric with a loose texture and a slightly napped surface; a plain or twill woven cotton fabric napped and of soft yarns simulating the texture of wool flannel.
Flannelette: A cotton flannel, soft material with a napped finish, usually only on one side. It may be bleached, dyed, printed, or woven in colored stripes. Plain and twill weave.
Flat crêpe: Also called French Crêpe or Lingerie Crêpe but not exactly the same. It is the flattest of all the crêpes with only a very slight pebbled or crêpe effect hard It is very soft and pliable, which makes it good for draping.
Flat-front pants: Straight pants, often seamless and pocketless.
Flip-flop: A rubber sandal loosely fastened to the foot by a thong.
Floor Length: A gown lightly touching the floor on all sides.
Flounce: A wide ruffle around the bottom of the skirt (similar to a peasant skirt).
French cuff: A soft double cuff that is made by turning back half of a wide cuff band and fastening with cuff links.
French terry: A knit jersey with loops on one side. Sometimes napped to make fleece.
Frock: A woman´s dress.
Frog closure: Chinese closing of decorative cording or braid. A soft ball of cording or a button is used to complete the closure.
Front Slit: A vertical opening at the front of a garment, usually along the seam, that allows for freedom of movement.
Fuji: A spun silk clothing fabric in plain weave originally made in Japan.
Gabardine: A tightly woven durable twill, usually, with a distinct twill line. Common used in men´s and women´s trousers, rainwear and a variety of other uses.
Garter: A band worn to hold up a stocking or sock; a band worn to hold up a shirt sleeve.
Gaucho: Wide-legged pants or divided skirt reaching mid-calf and worn with boots.
Gauntlet: A dress glove extending above the wrist.
Gauze: A thin often transparent fabric used chiefly for clothing or draperies.
Georgette: A thin strong clothing crêpe of fibers woven from hard-twisted yarns to produce a dull pebbly surface. Lightweight, heavy, sheer fabric. Has quite a bit of stiffness and body. Gives excellent wear. Has a dull, crinkled surface. Georgette has a harsher, duller, more crinkled feel and appearance than crêpe de chine.
Gingham: Light to medium weight, plain weave fabric. It is usually a cotton or cotton blend yarn dye in a color and white or 2 color check design.
Glengarry: A woolen cap of Scottish origin.
Glen plaid: A fabric woven in a twill pattern of broken checks. [Also called glen check]
Glove silk: Silk, rayon, synthetics. Knit - two bar double-knit tricot. Made on a warp knitted frame. Very finely knit but very strong. Now called nylon Simplex. Similar to Chamoisette (cotton).
Greatcoat: A heavy overcoat.
Grogram: A coarse loosely woven fabric of silk, silk and mohair, or silk and wool - compare grosgrain.
Grosgrain: A strong close-woven corded fabric usually of silk or rayon and often with cotton filler - compare grogram.
Guimpe: A blouse worn under a jumper or pinafore.
Guipure: A heavy large-patterned decorative lace.
Handkerchief style: The hem of a blouse or skirt that is gently jagged to form flowing points.
Harem pants: Women´s loose trousers that fit closely at the ankle.
Harris Tweed: All are hand woven on the islands off the Northern coast of Scotland (Outer Hebrides). There are two types of Harris Tweed. Now very few are woven from hand spun yarns as it takes too much time and labor. It is always stamped to that effect in addition to the label which any Harris Tweed always bears. When damp, it smells mossy and Smokey. Is now made from Scottish and other wools.
Haute couture: The main criteria, set forth in 1945 and updated in 1992, are as follows: to employ a minimum of fifteen people at the workshops, to present to the press in Paris each season (spring/summer and autumn/winter) a collection of at least thirty-five runs consisting of models for daytime wear and evening wear.
Herringbone: A twilled fabric with a herringbone pattern, namely a pattern made up of rows of parallel lines which in any two adjacent rows slope in opposite directions.
Hobble skirt: A skirt constricted at the bottom.
Hollywood waistband: Characterized by a full elasticized back and a side zipper/button closure.
Hook & eye closure: A 2-part fastening device (as on a garment or a door) consisting of a metal hook that catches over a bar or into a loop.
Houndstooth: One of the most easily identifiable checks is the houndstooth or dogstooth check. This weave is produced in a pattern of four light and four dark yarns in both warp and weft. The gun club check is a variation of the houndstooth but using a different color sequence traditionally on a light colored ground.
Illusion: Very fine, all-silk tulle which originated in France. It has a cobweb appearance. Hexagonal open mesh. Used in veils, particularly for weddings, trimmings.
Indigo: A natural dye material of a deep blue color. Natural Indigo is perhaps the oldest dye known to man. The oldest It was the original dye of the "Levi´s" blue jeans, a trademark color for durability. Natural Indigo is one of the fastest dyes known to man and is the only natural blue dye of permanence.
Jabot: Pleated frill of cloth or lace attached down the center front of a woman´s dress or blouse.
Jacquard: Joseph Jacquard invented this decorative weaving technique in 1804. A special loom is used to weave a pattern directly into the fabric; a costly process that produces an elegant cloth. A fabric of intricate variegated weave or pattern.
Jerkin: A close-fitting hip-length usually sleeveless jacket.
Jersey: Made of wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics. Knitted on circular, flat-bed or warp knitted methods (later popular as a tricot-knit). Right side has lengthwise ribs (Wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastic with good draping qualities. It has special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or have many elaborate tweed designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very well and if washable; it washes very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and had been used for fisherman´s clothing.
Jewel neck: A high round neckline resting simply at the base of the neck.
Jumper: A sleeveless one-piece dress worn usually with a blouse; a child´s overall.
Kapa: The native cloth of Hawaii; traditionally created only by women by beating strips of bark together was a dying art that was revived after much research. Bark from different types of trees was used, but the mulberry tree was the most common. Dyes were created from many different types of plants, many of which are still available.
Keyhole neck: A tear shaped or round cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
Knickers: Loose-fitting short pants gathered at the knee.
Lame: French for "trimmed with leaves of gold or silver". Silk or any textile fiber in which metallic threads are used in the warp or the filling. Lame is also a trade mark for metallic yarns. Often has pattern all over the surface. The shine and glitter of this fabric makes it suitable for dressy wear.
Lawn: A plain weave, soft, very light, combed cotton fabric with a crisp finish.
Lederhosen: Leather shorts often with suspenders worn especially in Bavaria.
Leg-of-mutton sleeve: (Also known as a gigot sleeve) A loose, full sleeve, rounded from the shoulder to just below the elbow, then shaped to the arm, often ending in a point at the wrist.
Lure: (Trademark) used for metallic yarn or thread.
Lycra: (Trademark) used for a spandex synthetic fiber.
Mohair: Produced from the hair of Angora goat, mohair is generally a milky-colored fleece, but can sometimes be black, brown or rose-colored. Ê Normally a plain weave, mohair is put into the fabric weft, usually with a worsted wool warp.Ê Less curly than sheep hair and, therefore, shinier, mohair is also very resilient, lustrous, durable and crease resistant.
Mukluk: A sealskin or reindeer-skin boot worn by Eskimos.
Mule: A shoe or slipper without quarter or heel strap.
Muslin: A plain-woven sheer to coarse cotton fabric.
Natural waist: A seam or waistband that secures or falls at the natural curve of the body, which is the indentation between the hips and the ribcage.
Neckline and collar styles
Ballerina neckline: This is a low neckline that usually occurs with strapless or spaghetti strapped dresses.
Bertha: A wide round collar covering the shoulders.
Bateau: A high, wide straight neckline that runs straight across the front and back, meeting at the shoulders; the same depth in the front and back.
Button-down: A shirt with a button-down collar.
Collarette: The trim around the neck of a t-shirt or sweatshirt.
Cowl neck: A neckline featuring a piece of material attached to a garment at the neck, which may be used as a hood or draped loosely in swag from shoulder to shoulder at the front neckline or back.
Crew neck: A round neck with ribbed banding that fits close to the base of the neck.
Décolletage: A décolleté dress, a strapless dress or one with a plunging neckline.
Diamond neck: A diamond-shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
Draped bodice: An extra piece of material is draped over the bust-line.
Eton collar: A large stiff turnover collar.
Halter: A woman´s top that leaves the back and arms bare and is typically held in place by straps around the neck and across the back.
Illusion: A gown with a yoke of sheer net and an often ornately decorated satin band, fitting snugly on the neck creating a choker effect.
Jabot: Pleated frill of cloth or lace attached down the center front of a woman´s dress or blouse.
Jewel neck: A high round neckline resting simply at the base of the neck.
Keyhole neck: A tear shaped or round cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.
Mandarin collar: An Asian stand-up collar with an opening in the center.
Notched collar: A two-piece collar that can be only worn open.
Off-the-shoulder neck: A neckline that lies gently hovering across the top of the bust-line with the shoulders uncovered or able to be seen through the sheer yoke of net or organza attached to a high collar.
Peek-a-boo: Any part of the garment which has been cut out to reveal skin.
Peter pan collar: A usually small flat close-fitting collar with rounded ends that meet in front.
Portrait: A shawl collar that wraps the shoulders.
Queen Anne: A collar that rises high at the back of the neckline, cupping the sides of the neck then sculpting low across the chest to outline a bare yoke.
Sailor collar: A broad collar having a square flap across the back and tapering to a V in the front.
Sabrina: A high scoop neck.
Scoop neck/round neck: A low, U-shaped or round neckline.
Shawl collar: A one-piece collar which is turned down to form a continuous line around the back of the neck to the front.
Split neck: A round neckline that looks like it has been cut in the center to form a small "V".
Square neck: An open-yoke neckline shaped in the form of a half square.
Wedding-band collar: A collar featuring a yoke that is either open or of sheer net with an ornate band fitting snugly on the neck, creating a choker effect.
Vandyke: A wide collar with a deeply indented edge.
V-neck: A garment, as a sweater, with a V-shaped neck.
Wing collar: A collar with projections which cover shoulder seams of bodices and doublets.
Wrap top/surplice top: A bodice created by the cross-wrapping of fabric; may be in front or back, and associated with a high or low neckline.
Necktie: A narrow length of material worn about the neck and tied in front.
Neckwear: Articles of clothing, as ties and scarves, worn about the neck.
Negligee: A woman´s long flowing usually sheer dressing gown.
Nehru jacket: Named after Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of independent India. The jacket was well known for its lack of lapels and modified mandarin collar.
Net: An open-meshed fabric twisted, knotted, or woven together at regular intervals. Made on a lace machine or gauze or leno weaves. A mesh fabric made in a variety of geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and weights. It is very open and light. It forms the foundation for a great variety of laces, curtains, millinery, fancy pillows, trims, evening and bridal wear. In cotton, some is used for mosquito netting and screening.
Nightshirt: A nightgown resembling a shirt.
Norfolk jacket: A loose-fitting belted single-breasted jacket with box pleats.
Notched collar: A two-piece collar that can be only worn open.
Nylon: A manufactured polyamide fiber. Nylon fabrics feature excellent strength, flexibility, toughness, elasticity, abrasion resistance, wash ability, ease of drying and resistance to attack by insects and microorganisms.
Obi: A broad sash worn especially with a Japanese kimono.
Off-the-shoulder neck: A neckline that lies gently hovering across the top of the bust-line with the shoulders uncovered or able to be seen through the sheer yoke of net or organza attached to a high collar.
Opera: A man´s collapsible top hat.
Organdy: A very fine transparent muslin with a stiff finish. Some has lappet, swivel, or flocked designs. Made with tightly twisted yarns. Crispness is due to a finish with starch and calendaring which washes out, or a permanent crispness obtained with chemicals (Heberlein process). Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish (bellmanizing). May be bleached, dyed, printed, frosted, flocked, embroidered, or plisse.
Organza: A sheer dress fabric resembling organdy and usually made of silk, rayon, or nylon. Fine, sheer, lightweight, crisp fabric. It has a very wiry feel. It crushes or musses fairly easily, but it is easily pressed. Dressy type of fabric sometimes has a silvery sheen. Used in trimming, neckwear, millinery, and under linings for delicate, sheer materials, as well as an underlining for other fabrics that require a bit of stiffness without weight.
Orlon: (trademark) Used for an acrylic fiber.
Ottoman: Heavy in weight - larger rib than both faille and bengaline. Very pronounced flat ribs in the filling direction. Ribs are made by a cotton, worsted, silk, or rayon filling which does not show on either the face or the back, because the warp covers the filling entirely. Is called Ottoman Cord or Ottoman rib when a warp rib is employed. Fabric is stiff and cannot be gathered or shirred.
Over blouse: A usually fitted or belted blouse worn un-tucked.
Over plaid: A fabric with an over-plaid design, a textile design consisting of a plaid pattern superimposed on another plaid or on a textured ground.
Overskirt: A skirt worn over another skirt.
Oxford: A low shoe laced or tied over the instep. A soft durable cotton or synthetic fabric with a silky luster made in plain or basket weaves; also called oxford cloth or oxford chambray. The one remaining commercial shirting material made originally by a Scotch mill which bore the names of four Universities - Oxford, Cambridge, Harvard, and Yale.
Panama: A lightweight hat of natural-colored straw hand-plaited of narrow strips from the young leaves of the jipijapa.
Panama Cloth: A plain woven worsted wool, sometimes resembling the texture of Panama hat.
Pane: A silk or rayon velvet with lustrous pile flattened in one direction also called pane velvet; a heavy silk or rayon satin with high luster and waxy smoothness.
Pannier: An overskirt draped at the sides of a skirt for an effect of fullness.
Pant dress: A dress having a divided skirt.
Pantsuit: A woman´s ensemble consisting usually of a long jacket and tailored pants of the same material.
Panty waist: Originally a child´s two-piece undergarment that buttoned together at the waist now used as an expression for a cowardly man.
Pare: A wraparound skirt usually made from a rectangular piece of printed cloth and worn by men and women throughout Polynesia; the Tahitian equivalent of the Samoan lava-lava.
Parka: A hooded fur pullover garment for arctic wear; a usually lined fabric outerwear pullover or jacket.
Pashmina: The Persian name for the softest, warmest, and most delicate type of wool is popularly known as Cashmere in the west. Actually Cashmere is the modern interpretation of pashmina wool.
Pea jacket: A heavy woolen double-breasted jacket originally worn by sailors. [Also called, pea coat] Peasant top: Romantic style often characterized with a low neckline, ruffles, or free flowing material.
Pebble effect: Fabric with a rough, granite-like, irregular or pebble effect on the face of the fabric. Most often, the fabric is some type of crêpe fabric.
Pedal pushers: Women´s and girls´ calf-length trousers.
Peek-a-boo: Any part of the garment which has been cut out to reveal skin.
Peg top: Peg trousers.
Peignoir: A woman´s loose negligee or dressing gown.
Peplum: Short section attached to waistline of a blouse, jacket, or dress.
Perforated/punched: Holes or small motifs are punched out of the fabric with a metal roller forming a design or pattern.
Permanent press: Describes a garment which will retain its shape throughout the life of the garment. Features include sharp creases, flat seams, smooth surfaces, and seems which are free from puckering.
Persian: A thin soft silk formerly used especially for linings.
Peter pan collar: A usually small flat close-fitting collar with rounded ends that meet in front.
Petticoat: An underskirt usually a little shorter than outer clothing and often made with a ruffled, pleated, or lace edge.
Picture hat: A woman´s dressy hat with a broad brim.
Pieced: A look created by sewing several pieces of material together to form the garment, much like a quilt.
Pillbox: A small round hat without a brim, specifically a woman´s shallow hat with a flat crown and straight sides.
Pilling: The formation of little balls of fibers (pills) on the surface of a fabric which is caused by abrasion in wear.
Pima cotton: A cotton that produces fiber of exceptional strength and firmness and that was developed in the southwestern U. S. by selection and breeding of Egyptian cottons.
Pinafore: Originally used to protect dresses from dirt, it was adopted as a fashion piece and worn as a sleeveless dress or over a blouse.
Piqué: A durable ribbed clothing fabric of cotton, rayon, or silk. Comes in medium to heavy weights. It Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish. Also comes in different patterns besides wales. The small figured motifs are called cloque. Some of the patterns are birdseye (small diamond), waffle (small squares), and honeycomb.
Placket: The piece of cloth that reinforces a split or opening in a garment; that usually also serves as the closure.
Plain Front: Refers to pants without pleats, but with a crease down the center.
Plain weave: Is made by weaving one weft yarn over and under each warp yarn, alternating each row. It is the most common type of weave.
Playsuit: A sports and play outfit for women and children that consists usually of a blouse and shorts.
Playwear: Informal clothing worn for leisure activities. Generally thought of when referring to children´s clothing.
Plimsolls: [British] lightweight canvas shoes with rubber soles; sneakers.
Plisse: A fabric with a puckered or pleated effect resulting from printing the fabric with caustic soda. The printed part of the fabric shrinks, causing the unprinted part to pucker.
Plug: A man´s stiff hat, as a bowler or top hat.
Plush: A fabric with an even pile longer and less dense than velvet pile.
Pointelle: A fabric with a pointelle design, an openwork design (as in knitted fabric) typically in the shape of chevrons.
Polished Cotton: Can be either a satin weave cotton or a plain weave cotton that is finished chemically to appear shiny.
Polo coat: A tailored overcoat made especially of tan camel´s hair often having stitched edges and a half-belt on the back.
Polyester:Ê A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85 percent of an ester of dihedral alcohol and terephthalic acid. Polyester fibers are strong and are resistant to shrinking and stretching. Fabrics are quick-drying and wrinkle-resistant.
Poodle: A fabric with a nubby or coarsely looped surface that resembles a poodle´s coat, also called poodle cloth.
Popcorn: A fabric utilizing yarn with thick spots suggesting popcorn. Usually a knit but may be woven.
Poplin: Cotton, wool, and other textile fibers. Crosswise rib. It is mercerized and has quite a high luster. Heavy poplin is given a water-repellent finish for outdoor use. Some also mildew-proof, fire-retardant, and some given a suede finish. American cotton broadcloth shirting is known as poplin in Great Britain.
Pongee: Thin soft fabric woven from raw silk or an imitation in cotton, polyester, or rayon. Originally from China and originally woven on hand looms in the home. Light or medium weight. Tan or ecru in color. Nubs or irregular cross ribs produced by uneven yarns. It is woven from wild tussah silk and it is a "raw silk". Pongee cotton is made of combed yarns and given a variety of finishes.
Porkpie hat: A hat with a low telescoped crown, flat top, and brim turned up all around or up in back and down in front.
Portrait: A shawl collar that wraps the shoulders.
Prince of Wales check: Perhaps is one of the most misused terms, the original of which was made for Edward VII when he was Prince of Wales. It is actually a very large check with a repeat of nine inches in bold red or brown on a cream ground with a grey overcheck. However, a misunderstanding arose when Edward, Duke of Windsor became the Prince of Wales and he favored a black and white Glen Urquhart check and the two designs became confused in many people´s minds.
Princess seams: Seams that can be found in the front or the back of a garment that create a form-fitting shape.
Pucker: A blister or puffed effect on the surface of the fabric. It may be the result of chemical treatment of the fabric or the result of using different yarns, yarns under different tension, or yarns of different shrinkage in one fabric.
Pucker embroidery: Fabric which has been embroidered in a such a way that the stitching purposefully causes a crinkle or pucker in the fabric.
Queen Anne: A collar that rises high at the back of the neckline, cupping the sides of the neck then sculpting low across the chest to outline a bare yoke.
Raglan: A loose overcoat with raglan sleeves.
Ramie: (pronounced Ray-me) Fabric often resembling linen or silk. [Ramie is the strong lustrous bast fiber of the ramie plant (an Asian perennial of the nettle family) that is capable of being spun or woven.
Rayon: (viscose) Fabric made from rayon, namely any of a group of smooth textile fibers made from regenerated cellulose by extrusion through minute holes. A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose in which subsistent have replaced not more than 15 percent of the hydrogen´s of the hydroxyl group.
Redingote: A woman´s lightweight coat open at the front; a dress with a front gore of contrasting material.
Reticule: A woman´s drawstring bag used especially as a carryall.
Sack coat: A man´s jacket with a straight back.
Saddle shoe: An oxford-style shoe having a saddle of contrasting color or leather. [Also called, saddle oxford].
Sailor: A stiff straw hat with a low flat crown and straight circular brim.
Sailor collar: A broad collar having a square flap across the back and tapering to a V in the front.
Sanforized: A trademarked finishing process which compresses the fabric to reduce its residual shrinkage to not more than 1 percent.
Saree or sari: Lightweight cloth draped so that one end forms a skirt or pajama and the other a head or shoulder covering. A piece of fabric about 6 yards in width and 44" in length which worn wrapped strategically around the body over a skirt petticoat and a choli. Worn by Indian and south Asian women.
Sarong: A loose garment made of a long strip of cloth wrapped around the body and worn as a skirt or dress by men and women chiefly of the Malay archipelago and the Pacific islands.
Sateen: Cotton, some also made in rayon. Sateen, 5-harness, filling-face weave. Lustrous and smooth with the sheen in a filling direction. Better qualities are mercerized to give a higher sheen.
Satin: Silk, rayon, synthetics. Originated in China (Became known in Europe during the XIIth, and XIIIth Centuries in Italy. Usually has a lustrous surface and a dull back. Made in many colors, weights, varieties, qualities, and degrees of stiffness. A low grade silk or a cotton filling is often used in cheaper cloths.
Satin-back crêpe: A reversible cloth with satin on one side and crêpe on the other.
Satin-back: Satin on one side and anything on the other. e.g. very good velvet ribbon has velvet on one side and satin on the other.
Satin Faconne: Jacquard figured fabric with an all-satin weave background. Various types of striping effects are obtained. Jacquard figure on a satin ground.
Satin weave: The satin weave is made by "floating" the warp or weft yarns across several yarns to bring them to the surface. Bringing the yarns to the surface gives the fabric sheen because light is reflected off the yarn surface, not absorbed by the intersections of yarns such as in a plain weave.
Satinet: A thin silk satin or imitation satin.
Saxony: A fine soft woolen fabric.
Scalloped: A series of semicircular curves along the edge of a fabric. Used as decorative edge for skirts, curtains etc.
Scenic: Refers to print motifs with a landscape theme.
Scoop neck/round neck: A low, U-shaped or round neckline.
Scuff: A flat-soled slipper without quarter or heel strap. [Compare mule]
Sea island cotton: A cotton with especially long silky fiber. The very finest and most expensive cotton, in very limited supply, with a fiber length greater than 1 1/2".
Seersucker: A lightweight fabric with puckered stripes made by weaving with some of the warp yarns tight and some loose. The loose warp threads become crinkled. Frequently made in yarn dye stripes and plaids. Often made of cotton or a cotton blend but can be in a variety of fibers. Used for summer clothing.
Self-belt: A belt made of the same material as the garment with which it is worn.
Serape: A colorful woolen shawl worn over the shoulders often found worn in Mexico.
Serge worsted: Unfinished worsted, wool, cotton, silk, rayon, and synthetics. On the face, the distinct diagonal runs from the lower left to the upper right - piece dyed. Has a smooth, hard finish that wears exceptionally well but will shine with use. The shine cannot be removed permanently. It is a good cloth in tailoring as it drapes and clings very well. Made in various weights. Unfinished worsted and wool are not quite as clear on the surface. French Sere is made of very fine soft yarns and has very fine twill. It is used for dresses or very soft suits.
Shaker: A heavy 1x1 rib knit.
Shantung: Plain weave fabric (cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics) having a slightly irregular surface due to uneven slubbed filling yarns. It is a raw silk made from Tussah silk or silk waste, depending on the quality. It is quite similar to pongee, but has a more irregular surface, heavier, and rougher. Most of the slubs are in the filling direction. Wrinkles quite a bit. Underlining helps to prevent this as well as slipping at the seams.
Sharkskin: Worsted. Some wool. Also made in rayons and synthetics (particularly Arnel) but they are quite different. (1) rayon (acetate), synthetics, particularly Arnel. A smooth crisp fabric with a dull finish made usually of rayon in basket weave. It is very smooth and slippery. Has a flat look. It is mostly made in white but some also comes colored. It wears well and launders well particularly in Arnel. Has a tendency to turn yellow with age, but the Arnel remains pure white. (2) Worsted wool the yarns in both the warp and filling are alternately white (or very light yarns) and colored. The combination of weave and color results in colored lines running diagonally to the left opposite to the twill lines in a "step" effect. Has a very sleek, smooth, feel and appearance. Although it is fairly light in weight, it has a very substantial feel. Gives excellent wear and sheds dirt readily and has many variations.
Shawl collar: A one-piece collar which is turned down to form a continuous line around the back of the neck to the front.
Sheath: A woman´s close-fitting dress usually without a belt and often has a slit to aid in walking.
Sheer: An article of clothing of sheer fabric. Mostly plain but could be various weaves. Any very light-weight fabric (e.g. chiffon, georgette, voile, sheer crêpe). Usually has an open weave.
Shell: A plain usually sleeveless blouse or sweater.
Shetland: Wool from Shetland sheep in Scotland. Sheep have a coarse outer coat and a very fine undercoat which gives added warmth. The best is the undergrowth. It is not shorn but pulled out by hand in the spring. Other wools are sometimes called Shetland if they have a similar appearance.
Shift: A woman´s usually loose-fitting or semi-fitted dress.
Shimmy: A chemise.
Shirred: A decorative gathering (as of cloth) made by drawing up the material along two or more parallel lines of stitching.
Shirtdress: A tailored dress patterned after a shirt and having buttons down the front.
Shirt jacket: A jacket designed in the style of a shirt. [Also called, shirt-jac].
Shirtwaist: A woman´s tailored garment, as a blouse or dress, with details copied from men´s shirts.
Shoddy: A fabric often of inferior quality manufactured wholly or partly from reclaimed wool.
Shrug: A woman´s small waist-length or shorter jacket.
Silkaline: Soft light cotton fabrics with a smooth lustrous finish like that of silk.
Simulated linen fabrics: Various rayons, cottons, synthetics, and blends are woven with threads of uneven thickness to simulate linen. They lack the cool, firm, yet soft feel of linen. Their irregularities are too even when seen beside real linen.
Skimmer: A usually straw flat-crowned hat with a wide straight brim; a fitted sleeveless dress with a flaring skirt.
Skirt styles
Column skirt/straight skirt: Also referred to as a pencil skirt, this skirt is a straight line with no flare or fullness at the hem or waistline.
Flared Skirt: A skirt fitted at the waist which flares out in an A-line, or tulip shape at the hemline.
Hobble skirt: A skirt constricted at the bottom.
Overskirt: A skirt worn over another skirt.
Pare: A wraparound skirt usually made from a rectangular piece of printed cloth and worn by men and women throughout Polynesia; the Tahitian equivalent of the Samoan lava-lava.
Petticoat: An underskirt usually a little shorter than outer clothing and often made with a ruffled, pleated, or lace edge.
Sarong: A loose garment made of a long strip of cloth wrapped around the body and worn as a skirt or dress by men and women chiefly of the Malay Archipelago and the Pacific islands.
Straight Skirt: Also referred to as a pencil skirt, this skirt is a straight line with no flare or fullness at the hem or waistline.
Tiered: A skirt comprised of layers of fabric of varying lengths.
Tutu: A short projecting skirt worn by a ballerina.
Wrap: A skirt that has two free edges, one of which is folded and wrapped over the other.
Skort: Shorts that have a front covering to resemble a skirt.
Skullcap: A close-fitting cap, especially a light cap without brim for indoor wear.
Sleeve styles
Balloon: A sleeve shaped full over the upper arm and narrowed from the elbow to wrist. Fuller at the top.
Bell: A sleeve that is narrow at the armhole and wide and uncuffed at the wrist as seen in choir gowns.
Dolman sleeve: Cut as an extension of the bodice, the dolman sleeve is designed without a socket for the shoulder, creating a deep, wide armhole that reaches from the waist to a narrowed wrist. Also called a batwing sleeve.
French cuff: A soft double cuff that is made by turning back half of a wide cuff band and fastening with cuff links.
Fitted point sleeve: A long, narrow sleeve that tapers to a point which rests against the back of the hand.
Leg-of-mutton sleeve: (Also known as a gigot sleeve) a loose, full sleeve, rounded from the shoulder to just below the elbow, and then shaped to the arm, often ending in a point at the wrist.
Medium: A sleeve length that is just above or below the elbow.
Poet: A sleeve that is gathered at shoulder and very full from shoulder to cuff.
Puff sleeve/pouf sleeve: A full sleeve of varying lengths, created by generous gathering around the armhole.
Short: A sleeve length that is no longer than the bicep level and no shorter than cap length.
Sleeveless: No sleeves at all; often seen in conjunction with a bateau, boat, ballerina, or scoop neck; also utilized with a halter neckline.
3/4 Length: A sleeve length in which the wrist line stops just below the elbow.
Tulip: A short sleeve that criss-crosses over the biceps of the arm. Also knows as the petal, criss-crossed or overlapped sleeve.
Slipper Satin: Strong, compactly woven with quite a bit of body. It is used chiefly for footwear. Textures are high and the material may be colored or richly brocaded effects. - Shiniest satin.
Slouch hat: A soft usually felt hat with a wide flexible brim.
Slubbed: Refers to fabric using yarn with uneven areas, i.e. with a thick and thin appearance occurring at irregular intervals.
Smock: A light loose garment worn especially for protection of clothing while working.
Snap-brim: A hat usually felt with brim turned up in back and down in front and with a dented crown.
Snood: A fillet or band for a woman´s hair; a net or fabric bag pinned or tied on at the back of a woman´s head for holding the hair.
Soutache: A decorative narrow braid trim.
Sou´wester: A waterproof hat with wide slanting brim longer in back than in front.
Spat: A cloth or leather gaiter covering the instep and ankle. [Short for spatterdash].
Spencer: A ladies short waist-length jacket.
Split neck: A round neckline that looks like it has been cut in the center to form a small "e;V"e;.
Square neck: An open-yoke neckline shaped in the form of a half square.
Step-in: A garment put on by being stepped into, as a shoe or short panties for women. [Usually used in plural].
Stovepipe: A Silk hat.
Sweetheart neck: A graceful, open yoke, shaped like the top half of a heart.
Taffeta: Silk, rayon, synthetics. Usually plain with a fine cross rib. A cloth supposed to have originated in Iran (Persia) and was called "e;taftah"e; (a fine silk fabric). It is made in plain colors, fancy prints, watered designs, and changeable effects. It is smooth with a surface sheen. The textures vary considerably. They have a crispness and stiffness.
Faille Taffeta: Made with a crosswise rib weave. Has a distinct rib effect and is usually quite heavy and firm.
Paper Taffeta: Plain weave, very light in weight and treated to give a crisp, paper-like finish.
Shot Taffeta: Usually plain weave, woven with one color in the warp and another color in the filling, which gives the fabric an iridescent look. (changes color in the light).
Tissue Taffeta: Plain weave, very light weight and transparent.
Warp-print Taffeta: Usually a plain weave, the warp yarns are printed before the filling is inserted. The fabric has a very fuzzy design when design is distorted as fabric is woven.
Tam-o´-shanter: A Scottish woolen cap with a tight headband, wide flat circular crown, and usually a pompon in the center.
Tapa: A coarse cloth made in the Pacific islands from the pounded bark especially of the paper mulberry and usually decorated with geometric patterns.
Tape: A narrow woven fabric.
Tapestry: A heavy hand-woven reversible textile used for hangings, curtains, and upholstery and characterized by complicated pictorial designs.
Tap pants: A loose-fitting woman´s undergarment of a style similar to shorts formerly worn for tap dancing.
Tarlatan: A sheer cotton fabric in open plain weave usually heavily sized for stiffness.
Tartan: Refers to the kinds of plaid patterns traditionally worn by Scottish highlanders. Each design was associated with a specific family or "e;clan"e;. The term is generally used to today in reference to any plaid design similar to these Scottish designs.
Tatting: A delicate handmade lace formed usually by looping and knotting with a single cotton thread and a small shuttle.
Tea Length: A gown hemmed to end at the shin.
Tea gown: A semiformal fancy gown in graceful flowing lines worn especially for afternoon entertaining at home.
Tencel ®: The brand name for a fiber called lyocell. TENCEL® is a man-made fiber but natural in origin. This means it is very comfortable to wear because it is breathable and absorbent, like other natural fibers. TENCEL® is durable and this means that the clothes last.
Tie silk: A silk fabric of firm resilient pliable texture for neckties and for blouses and accessories.
Tiffany: Sheer silk gauze formerly used for clothing and trimmings; a plain-woven open-mesh cotton fabric. (as cheesecloth).
Tissue: A fine lightweight often sheer fabric.
Toboggan: A knit hat worn to keep the head warm in cold temperatures. (not to be mistaken for a long sled.)
Toile: Can be any of the many plain or simple twill weave fabrics especially linen.
Topknot: An ornament, as a knot of ribbons or a pompom, forming a headdress or worn as part of a coiffure; a crest of feathers or tuft of hair on the top of the head.
Topper: A silk hat; opera hat; a woman´s usually short and loose-fitting lightweight outer coat.
Toque: A warm knitted usually pointed stocking cap.
Triacetate: A man-made fiber produced from cellulose triacetate in the forms of filament yarn, staple and tow. Cellulose triacetate fiber differs from acetate fiber in that during its manufacture the cellulose is completely acetylated where as regular acetate, which is diacetate, is only partially acetylated.
Tricolette: A silk or rayon knitted fabric used especially for women´s clothing.
Tricot: A plain warp-knitted fabric (as of nylon, wool, rayon, silk, or cotton) with a close inelastic knit and used especially in clothing (as underwear). Vertical wales on surface and more or less crosswise ribs on the back. Has a thin texture, made from very fine or single yarns. Glove silk is a double bar tricot (very run-resistant). Used for underwear, sportswear, bathing suits, gloves.
Tropical worsteds: 100% worsted. If just called tropical, it can be made up in any fiber or blends of wool and a synthetic. The yarns are very tightly twisted and woven to permit a free circulation of air. It is lightweight and is ideal for summer and tropical wear.
Tulle: A sheer often stiffened silk, rayon, cotton or nylon net used chiefly for veils or ballet costumes. Derived name from Tulle, France. First made by machine in 1768. Has a hexagonal mesh and is stiff.
Tussah: Dull luster and rather stiff. Has a rough texture with many slubs, knots, and bumps. It is ecru or tan in color and it is difficult to bleach. It usually doesn´t take an even dye color. Wears well and becomes rougher looking with wear. It wrinkles a little, but not as much as some. Various weights. Appears in filament and staple form. In lighter weights, dresses. In heavier weights, coats and suits and ensembles.
Tweed: A general term describing strong, rough texture fabrics with mixed color effects. Traditionally wool but tweeds of various fibers are now made. Used for coats, suits, jackets, drapery, upholstery.
Twill: A general term for a woven fabric made with a twill weave, a basic weave characterized by diagonal lines on the face of the fabric.
Twin set: A combination of a matching pullover and cardigan worn together.
Vandyke: A wide collar with a deeply indented edge.
Veiling: A general term for a large variety of light, open fabrics used for such purposes as bridal veils, dress trim, evening wear, or millinery.
Velour: A knit or woven fabric with a soft, short thick nap made by brushing and shearing. Knit velour is used in women´s tops and sportswear. The woven is usually heavier in weight and used for coats, jackets, drapery.
Velvet: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, and a little wool and worsted. Pile made with an extra warp yarn. Mostly made with a plain back but some have a twill back. Some are made with a silk pile and a rayon or cotton back.
Cisele velvet: Velvet with a pattern formed by contrast in cut and uncut loops.
Vaconne velvet: Patterned velvet made by burnt-out print process. The design is of velvet with background plain.
Lyons velvet: A stiff, thick pile velvet. Used for hats, coat collars, also for suits, coats and dresses, when thick velvets are fashionable.
Nacre velvet: The back is of one color and the pile of another, so that it gives a changeable, pearly appearance.
Transparent velvet (chiffon velvet): Lightweight, very soft, draping velvet made with a silk or rayon back and a rayon pile.
Panne velvet: Has a longer or higher pile than velvet, but shorter than plush. It is pressed flat and has a high luster made possible by a tremendous roller-press treatment given the material in finishing. Now often made as a knit fabric.
Velvet satin: A satin weave is used as the base for this luxurious figured silk, made with a cut pile effect.
Velveteen: A woven fabric generally of cotton or a cotton blend with a short, dense pile resembling velvet. Velveteen differs from velvet in that it is usually made of cotton, it generally has a shorter pile and it is a filling pile fabric whereas velvet is a warp pile fabric. Used for women´s wear, drapery, upholstery.
Vicuña: A fabric made of vicuña wool or a sheep´s wool imitation of vicuña.
Viyella: A blend of 55% wool and 45% cotton in a Twill weave. Has the appearance of very fine flannel. It is soft, fine, and warm. Holds a good pleat. Washable by machine.
V-neck: A garment, as a sweater, with a V-shaped neck.
Voile: A fine soft sheer fabric used especially for women´s summer clothing or curtains. Sheer and very light weight. Voile drapes and gathers very well. The clear surface is obtained by singeing away any fuzzy yarns. Has a hard finish and crisp, sometimes wiry hand. "e;Voile de Laine"e; is wool voile.
Waistline styles
Asymmetrical waistline: Features a side change in the waist height, i.e. from Empire to Natural.
Basque waist/V-waist: This dropped waist starts at or just below the natural waistline, and dips in the center creating a "e;V"e; shape.
Blouson: A garment, as a dress, having a close waistband with blousing of material over it.
Cummerbund: A broad waistband usually worn in place of a vest with men´s dress clothes and adapted in various styles of women´s clothes.
Cutaway: A coat with skirts tapering from the front waistline to form tails at the back.
Dropped waist/low waist: A waistline that is sits below the body´s natural waistline.
Empire waist: This waistline begins just below the bust.
Hollywood waistband: Characterized by a full elasticized back and a side zipper/button closure.
Natural waist: A seam or waistband that secures or falls at the natural curve of the body, which is the indentation between the hips and the ribcage.
Peplum: Short section attached to waistline of a blouse, jacket, or dress.
Warp: The yarns that run the length of the loom. The warp yarns are pulled through the loom as the weft or filling yarns are woven across the warp to make the fabric.
Weaving: An ancient art of making fabric, with no new types of weaves having been developed since 1747. The warp yarns and weft yarns are interlaced (woven) with each other to make a fabric (vs. a knit where the yarns are looped together). There are three basic weaving constructions.
Plain weave: The Plain Weave is made by weaving one weft yarn over and under each warp yarn, alternating each row. It is the most common type of weave.
Twill weave: The twill weave is similar to a satin weave in the sense that the loom is floating the warp or weft yarns over yarns of the opposite direction, but with twill the yarn is only passing over two of the opposite yarns. Twill is distinctive by the diagonal lines that appear in the fabic. A twill weave, like a satin weave, usually results in a softer fabric than a plain weave. It is excellent for brushed or napped cotton, and is superior for a feather pillow ticking because of its strength.
Satin weave: The satin weave is made by "e;floating"e; the warp or weft yarns across several yarns to bring them to the surface. Bringing the yarns to the surface gives the fabric sheen because light is reflected off the yarn surface, not absorbed by the intersections of yarns such as in a plain weave.
Cambric: A plain weave construction, Cambric fabric is also calendered (passed between rollers under heat and pressure) to give the surface a shine. Originally made in Cambrai, France.
Sateen: A satin weave construction usually made of mercerized combed cotton, where the weave and quality of cotton give the fabric a wonderful shine and softness.
Warp: The yarns that run the length of the loom. The warp yarns are pulled through the loom as the weft or filling yarns are woven across the warp to make the fabric.
Weft or Filling: The yarns that are woven across the loom, with Weft being the English term and Filling being the American term. The individual yarns are also known as Picks.
Wedding-band collar: A collar featuring a yoke that is either open or of sheer net with an ornate band fitting snugly on the neck, creating a choker effect.
Windsor tie: A broad necktie usually tied in a loose bow.
Wing collar: A collar with projections which cover shoulder seams of bodices and doublets.
Wing tip: A shoe having a wing tip, namely a toe cap having a point that extends back toward the throat of the shoe and curving sides that extend toward the shank.
Wool: A woven fabric of wool, namely the soft wavy or curly hypertrophied undercoat of various hairy mammals and especially the sheep made of a matrix of keratin fibers and covered with minute scales. A garment made of wool. The term ´wool´ refers to the fibers from the fleece of lambs, sheep, Cashmere goats, Angora goats, camels, llamas, alpacas, and vicunas. Wool from sheep is the most common, lamb´s wool is shorn from sheep less than eight months old, and Merino wool is from a specific breed that yields the finest and softest sheep wool. Mohair is the wool of the Angora goat.
Woolen: A fabric made of wool and especially of woolen yarns having a fuzzy or napped face (as for use in clothing or blankets) - compare worsted.
Worsted: A fabric made from worsted yarn, namely a smooth compact yarn from long wool fibers used especially for firm nap-less fabrics.
Wrap top/surplice top: A bodice created by the cross-wrapping of fabric; may be in front or back, and associated with a high or low neckline.
Zoot suit: A severely cut suit consisting of a thigh-length jacket with wide padded shoulders and peg pants with narrow cuffs. |
